Friday, September 13, 2013

Odds, Ends, and Other Helpful Tips for the Lake

It's the night before we must leave Atitlan, and I am not ready to go. Perhaps this is the kind of place where you never feel ready to go. ;-) In contemplation of our departure, I found myself thinking more generally about our experience. A few themes emerged that I thought I would share.

Be Curious
Even if you don't have a lot of Spanish, try. People appreciate the effort - remember Spanish is a second language for most of them as well. Even better, try to learn a bit of the indigenous language. In the area where we spent most of our time, that's Tz'utujil (the other on the lake is Kaqchikel)
Ken and I learned how to say hello/what's up from a fellow boat passenger: "Utz a Wetch." We got such a kick out of greeting our Mayan neighbors with their own language.

Walk Down Strange Paths
When we first arrived, many of the small paths in the neighboring town looked like private trails going directly to homes. As we saw the "small path" re-created in several towns, we realized that they are actually considered roads in the town, and yes, it's okay to walk them. If we hadn't, we wouldn't have discovered some really wonderful little spots off the beaten path. (The restaurant La Puerta in San Pedro is hard to find but soooo worth it!)


Speaking of walking, make sure you avoid walking long stretches of rural roads on Sundays. Without workers in the fields, the roads can be dangerous . If you do get robbed, it is very rare for a foreigner to be seriously hurt if they agree to part with the valuables.

Take the Time to Enjoy the View
Lake Atitlan is special. I have so enjoyed my quiet time just watching the moods of the lake change over the course of the hours. It is very relaxing and sometimes exciting (when storms are coming in.)



Make Peace with the Bugs
Realize that being in place that is so alive and beautiful means you will run into other creatures. Try not to get too anxious about sharing your space. I have found all of them to be very wary of us and attempt to stay out of our way. The great majority are perfectly harmless.

Enjoy the People
They are warm, friendly, respectful, and funny. If you learn a little more about their culture and language, you will be greatly rewarded with some rich encounters.


Appreciate the Little Things
Allow yourself to be delighted and full of wonder when someone does something special or unexpected for you.






The Food is GOOD
Honestly, every meal out has been really tasty. I am a lot happier here with the consistent quality of the food I receive in restaurants here than those at home. It also helps that we are usually paying about $10 for two meals and drinks and they generally come with a great view.


It's Easier to Eat Healthy Here
Speaking of food, the vegetables and fruit here are fantastic - they are coming directly from the fields to your plate and the taste is so much better than grocery stores back home.


Drink Liquados!
Speaking of healthy, one of my favorite things to order here is a liquado. You can usually choose between watermelon, cantaloupe, strawberry, banana, pineapple, or mixed and the base is water, milk, or yogurt. If you're in a "rustic" spot, you may choose to order your liquado with orange juice as the base to ensure you don't get sick. My favorite so far has been a "Mono Loco" liquado at La Puerte in San Pedro - banana, peanut butter, chocolate with milk as the base - um, yum.


 


It's Also Easier to Be Active
I have to admit, the first week or so is ROUGH if you are not used to being at 5k elevation - think visiting team to Denver. You really don't have much choice though if you want to explore  - each town has steep streets leading to the center of town. If you are staying outside of a town, you will be walking to get your basics. And, don't forget that big beautiful lake out there just waiting to be explored by kayak.



Keep it in Perspective
Don't squabble over the small things. For example, you WILL pay more on the boat than other people - more than the indigenous, and more than the long-term visitors. That's just the way things work, and it is fair in it's own way. It is very difficult here to earn the amount of money you can earn in other places, so the people here pay less. Period. Don't be the guy that gets into a heated argument about 10Q versus 20Q...keep in mind you are arguing the difference between paying $1.25 and $2.75 for a boat ride or tuk-tuk. 

Gas is one of the few things that is just as expensive here, so the way I see it, the visitors supplement the costs for the locals in exchange for them sharing this beautiful place with us.


Start Conversations
The lake bring together the most intriguing people. Make the most of your experience by starting conversations with the people you run into here. I consider it something of a responsibility that after we were here for a couple weeks, that we jump in to help anyone with a confused look. Why not?



I have a couple more posts about a couple of the towns we visited but I didn't get a chance to write about, so we're not quite done with the lake yet!

Wednesday, September 11, 2013

View from the Lake - Kayak Day


They say a picture is worth a thousand...blah, blah blah. So, basically this post will be mostly photos, cause they tell the best story of our incredible day on the water. We rented a double kayak on the edge of San Marcos and had ambitious plans to go all the to Santa Cruz - didn't happen. We got to the next town of Tzuzuna and decided that was plenty. Note to would-be kayakers - IMHO, stick to the shoreline, it's more interesting than the open water, safer to stay away from the boats, and that lake is way larger than it looks.

This first section is a look at some of the lakeside properties in the San Marcos to Pasaj-Cap area. While it's easy to envy these folks, I also feel a little bad for them. The lake has rose a solid couple of feet just in the month we have been here. That could mean devastation for many of these properties sooner than we thought.














Outside of the towns, there are some wonderful untouched areas of jungle - so peaceful and beautiful.













And there are some of the homes in the Pasaj-Cap cove...this first one looks ready to lose the first floor...



 And this is where we're staying, Pasaj-Cap-


 Between Pasaj-Cap and Tzuzuna...this first one is our favorite














And some of our favorite shots from around the lake













It was a wonderful day - make sure if you kayak that you plan to be back in the early afternoon - the weather can be unpredictable and a calm lake can turn pretty interesting pretty quickly.